Where to begin... |
What? Looks good to me! |
As I hinted in my last post - this neck (along with all the others) will need quite a bit of work - some necessary some cosmetic - before it can be played. I know for sure I will have to:
- Fill the existing screw holes
- Drill new holes to match the body blank and neck plate I have chosen
- Change the headstock shape to a more 'Les Paul' style
- Fix that chip in the fretboard at the 24th fret
- Final/finish sand
- Tape off the fretboard
- Stain and shellac the neck
- Finish with nitrocellulose spray
- Let dry for 3 weeks - then sand/polish
- Level/crown/polish the existing frets
- Clean/polish fret board
- Install a nut
- Install tuners
- Add a lamination to the headstock that matches the body wood (the maple headstock kind of stands out)
- Inlay an Irish 20p coin on the headstock (it's my thing ...until I come up with a logo)
- Bind the headstock to match the body
- Change the fret marker inlays (the diamonds). Nothing wrong with them. I just have something better in mind.
I may have no choice but to:
- Re-fret the neck. Which is a big fat pain in the butt - but it may have to happen...
What's wrong with my shape? What do you mean I, "stand out?" |
One of the synonyms for what I'm doing here is, "reaming" I'm just going to leave you with that thought. |
This neck came with screw holes already on the back. I might have been able to reuse them but more likely I would have just been fighting them when it came time to screw the neck onto the body of my guitar. It's best not to bump into an old hole (or make it bigger) when attaching the neck. Better to fill them and start over. I enlarged the existing holes so that I could glue some dowels in to seal them up for good.
Don't be fooled - nothing in my shop is level. Even that Level has a twist in it. |
Perfect! Don't change a thing! |
I used CA glue as I was in a hurry on this particular evening.
One note: I used a fret hammer to tap these in as they are like 3/16th of an inch and prone to breaking (as you can clearly see in the above picture). All this is a way of saying that a construction hammer may be a bit of an overkill for this job. I also find it helpful to taper one end so that it fits in the hole better.
I'll cut a b--ch! Branch! I meant branch. |
Like so... |
No one will ever see it! |
Wait a minute... |
So I took a straight edge to the neck. Yep, the heel of the neck itself wasn't completely square.
For that matter - neither was my neck pocket. I could still see little scratches from the router blade.
So, ignoring what I just said above about valleys and peaks - how does one sand something flat? There are a couple of ways...
Son of a..! |
The best way to flatten the neck heel is to tape a piece of sandpaper to the top of your workbench or table saw and run the heel slowly across that with even pressure. Just a minute or two of that (using 100 grit paper) was enough to flatten the heel so that it looked decent with a straight edge.
For the neck pocket - it's best to find something you know is square (or straight). I used a 1 by 1 inch square dowel that I was reasonably sure wasn't warped and wrapped sand paper around it. Press firmly and evenly while making slow passes.
I saw another idea on the Fender website that I will try in the future: tape the sand paper to two sides of the square block but leave the other sides without sandpaper - that way you can sand up to a finished (or already squared) edge without taking any more wood off on that surface. Simple but smart.
Looks ugly. Feels real nice! |
Don't be put off by how it looks. Those rings around the dowels are dried glue and the pen mark is just so I know where the cut away starts. That sucker is flat and smooth. You can't feel the dowels at all.
That'll do pig. That'll do. |
Lacey! |
For now, things look good. I should probably screw this sucker into the body.
(for those playing the home game, that was the ninth double entendre in this post.)
I'm kidding. I don't keep count...
No comments:
Post a Comment