Wednesday, September 30, 2015

Bling a Ling Ling

When it comes to guitars - a little flash never hurt anyone.  One of my favorite ways to customize a guitar is with a custom neck plate.  The funny thing is that in the normal course of playing a guitar neither you nor an audience member can see the neck plate - so it's more of a mental thing for the player than anything else.

I've used a couple of different vendors for custom neck plates over the years.  The most recent one is http://www.customneckplate.com/  You provide them with a decent quality image and you get back something like this:

Celtic Love knot
I don't normally go for the gold.  But I figured it would be a nice compliment to the warm tones/figure of the Mahogany wood. A cool new feature of this vendor is the ability to put serial numbers on the neck plates.

...whether or not I actually finish these three guitars in 2015 is anyone's guess.

...okay I wouldn't put a lot of money on it...


Awen - Welsh symbol for inspiration.
See kids!  This is what trolling around on the internet for hours at a time will get you:  You spend your money of some really strange stuff.  

Another fun tip: When you type "Celtic Symbol" into Google you get a lot of craptastic tattoo pictures but sometimes you strike gold.  I liked this symbol - the Awen - from the moment I saw it.  It doesn't really appear to be "Celtic" but I like what it stands for and since I'm about  1/16th Welsh -  let's run with it!

Three.  It's the magic number...

I'm pretty sure that the Celtic knot is going on the Les Paul and the Awen symbol is going on the PRS (whenever I get back to that build).  But where is that black neck plate going to go...?
Hmmm...
...I do wonder...


Monday, September 28, 2015

What does it have in its pocketses, Precious?

Pictured: Time to put my Router where my mouth is.
(Okay, for real kids, don't do that.  Like, ever.)

To me - this is the most nerve wracking part of any guitar build.  There comes a time when all fun and games are over - and you have to route a neck pocket.  I've talked about this in other blog posts - but this really is the most crucial cut you will make building a guitar.  In my mind - everything else is ergonomics and aesthetics.  

So what if your pickup cavities are too deep or slightly off-center? 
There are pickup rings and springs to compensate for it.  

So what if your volume/tone knobs are a little to the left or right of where they should be? 
Stretch your fingers a little 'cupcake!'

I'm gonna get you, sucka!
This part of the build determines whether or not the guitar is going to be playable.  Period.  Mess this up and you have a pretty looking piece of art vs. a smooth playing instrument. The only other act of wood-working that is as crucial as this one is when you install the bridge.  
...and we'll get to that in due course.  So, as you can tell, I take this part pretty seriously.

Now is the time to repeat the wood-worker's mantra, "Measure twice, cut once."

Measure twice, cut once.  Measure twice, cut once.  Measure twice, cut once.
Since I'm still fairly new to this - I measured about six or seven times.  No, seriously, I had three different straight edges, a couple of rulers, and at least one level out while I was setting up this cut.

I am also lucky - in that I have a bolt-on Les Paul to use as a reference.  I was able to run between my garage and my music room a couple of times to take measurements.  If you do not have an Epiphone Les Paul kicking around - I recommend going to a guitar store and asking if you can take some measurements.  Most of the small shops will be cool with it - if you are polite and gentle with their merchandise (I am speaking from experience).

Because I have a bolt-on Epiphone Les Paul at my disposal - I was able to determine that the neck pocket is closer to 3/4th of an inch deep vs. the 5/8th of an inch that most Fender neck pockets have. In my research I wasn't able to determine if Epiphones have a standard neck pocket depth (like Fender does) so I split the difference on this build.  Currently the neck pocket on my build is just shy of 3/4ths of an inch.  But - by the time I am finished sanding the top the pocket will be closer to 11/16th of an inch deep.

...or at least that is my current plan...

All this is just a way of saying - I'm working it out.  Stay tuned as to how it goes...

Small but fierce!
If you have been following along - you know what's next.  I routed, and routed, and routed some more using the template and template bit above.  The reason for all this routing is because I didn't take more than 1/4 of an inch off on any one pass.  It is also the reason you want to make sure your template is accurate and securely fastened to the body.  If your template shifts during the second or third pass - you are going to have all the feels.
(See? Isn't that an awkward phrase?  Why don't we stop using it...?)

One note - I waited until this point to route the neck pocket because if I did it prior to this the pocket wouldn't be angled.  Since the top has a 4 degree angle in it (and I put the template on top of that) the pocket has a 4 degree angle to it.  It's hard to see in the below picture - but trust me - it's there.  This is going to help when I install the bridge.

Success?
I was so focused on getting this right - I didn't take any photos of the process.  Once the neck pocket was done, however, I took some shots of how it all turned out.  If you look closely in the above picture you can see that the Lacewood will be rather prominent at the cutaway.  Once it is sanded and finished it's going to look pretty sexy.  That's a wood-working term.


"You have learned much my young Padawan.  But you are not a Jedi yet."

The end product looks good - so far.
The neck joint isn't as tight as purists say it should be (I can't currently carry the guitar around by the neck.  

...but it's close.

Once I put a finish/varnish on the neck - this is going to be one tight joint.  Oh, and there will be four frickin' screws holding it in too!  Silly purists.  But seriously, I subscribe to the idea that wood will expand and contract with the weather/seasons.  It's probably a good idea to allow a little tolerance for that.  Having said that - I'm not going to pretend that I wasn't aiming for a super tight fit.  I'm still working on the whole 'precision' thing.

Thank goodness for the Fret Board Hangover.

I still have to do a decent amount of work on this neck:
I will definitely be putting some kind of veneer on the headstock.  What kind? I don't know yet. Possibly something to match the body.

Looking at the rest of the neck I keep wondering if I want to keep the existing fret markers (the diamonds).
...or do I want to try my hand at some inlay work...?

If I had completely bollocksed this up - you would see a much bigger gap right here.

I am also intrigued by the idea of binding the fretboard.  Which is a butt-load of work and should be completed before the frets are installed but I'll hold off judgement until after I bind the top.
Oh yeah, I also have to flatten and polish the frets, don't I...?
Hmmm...  Still lots to do...

Wow.  That almost looks right.
Sweet!

So!
Here we are...
It LOOKS pretty good but looks have no bearing on playability.  
For now,  I am cautiously optimistic.  And for the purists - there is nothing holding the neck in that neck pocket in this picture except the tightness of that joint.  So, there may be hope for me as a wood worker yet.

"Every girl's crazy 'bout a sharp square joint."

Monday, September 14, 2015

Non-Strata

Now that we have all these strata/levels/layers - it's time we got rid of them!

Really?  

Yes, really.  

You put all the time and effort into creating the stratum templates and cutting into the top of the guitar body - only to remove all the work you just did.  Because it is going to save you time.

Let that sink in for a sec...

Okay, that's not completely true.  It also makes things more precise.  Left to my own devices (e.g. going freehand) my Les Paul carved top would probably look more like a Strat body.  
...and not by choice!  

So, now we SAND!

Lots and lots of sanding.

I didn't take a ton of pictures of the sanding process.  But here's the rub (pun intended)...

You are trying to turn those 'steps' into one mound.  If you are good with a card scraper or a small hand plane (or a finger plane) you can start off using one of those.  I'm terrible with planes and my card scraper needs to be sharpened - so I just busted out the sand paper.  To start I used a small powered sander (a Black & Decker Mouse).  It's not the best sander but it got me started.  I switched to a small sanding block and completed the shape by hand. I think I used 80 or 60 grit paper to get the rough shape and then moved up to 100 to smooth it out a bit. 

One note about my sanding block:  I found it useful to wrap a small (1 inch by 1 inch by 3/4 inch) piece of mahogany scrap in some scotch-brite and then wrap the sandpaper around that.  Having a sanding block with a little 'give' worked for me.  It might (or might not) work for you.

On the Left - Where I'm going.
On the Right - Where I've been.

This is not the final shape - but I'm happy so far.  The mound is a little too abrupt right now but I plan on taming it a bit.


Pictured: Arched

Pictured: Mounds





Pictured: Swells




Pictured: Carved


Pictured: The end of the analogy.

The top still has a lot of shaping to go between now and it's first Marshall stack - but I think this is off to a good start